OHIO

Essays

“That’s so Ohio.” It’s the best example of how the state got weird—bad weird. Its foundation is the flip, particularly up in northern Ohio. We had cities more liberal than New York, and now? That’s a flip.

For the last ten years of that historic phenomenon called the Rust Belt, Ohio was considered a symbol of complete squareness. It became so square, so uncool, that it flipped entirely and became—for lack of a better word—cool.

So, sitting somewhere in between the tail end of the Rust Belt and the rise of the greatest flipper in the world, J.D. Vance, Ohio enjoyed years of actually being perceived as cool. A lot of that came from the huge growth of urban exploration and shooting abandonment sites. Then you had the music—the Black Keys or Nine Inch Nails, but also stalwarts like the Numbers Band, keeping the genuine article alive in Kent. Punk and new wave left a real mark on the state. And finally, you had the slow, agonizing rise of its underdog professional sports teams, culminating in the Cavs’ World Championship title.

By the 1980s, Cleveland had the biggest stadium in the American League and the lowest ticket sales to show for it. Probably for a good reason, because those teams were unusual. We went from the ghosts of Bob Feller straight to the chaos of Ten Cent Beer Night.

But with regards to this essay, it’s obviously mostly focused outside of the big city. It’s out in the rural areas, the small towns, or just out there in the silence.

And if you want more of the dumbass tradition, Ohio has always had that with Ohio State, the perennial American winners beating the brains out of somebody on a Saturday. There’s a reason the Pro Football Hall of Fame is down the road in Canton. It belongs there. But there is no good reason the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame is in Cleveland, beyond the fact that they had some of the best, most desperate rock fans in the world—blue-collar kids pulling wire and pouring steel. But let’s face it, that building should’ve gone to Memphis. Dare I say, Elvis? Graceland? Stax Records? How about Sun Studio where the whole thing was actually born, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, B.B. King, and the real sweat of Beale Street? Memphis actually earned it.

For a while there, Ohio was fake it to make it. It was sort of like Williamsburg, Brooklyn,when the hipsters showed up.

I mentioned exploration as being the messenger for the weird, sublime wonders of Ohio. A lot of the shots in this essay are related to that specific category of photography that goes out looking for a fistfight between beauty and ugliness, even without any experience of the place. Theirs can just imagine, but not with RealStill.

Ohio was never a postcard. It was always a place to leave, not stay. As a landscape, it runs right at the bottom of the barrel of states I would choose to photograph. But I shot it anyways. You know, the pain of “it wasn’t cool.”Unfortunately, whether I like it or not, this beautiful decay is what the state became known for. For a while, anyway, and it was a long time, at least as long as a person’s life. Places taht were obviously headed toward disapppearance. Best part it cut captured before going, and before abandonment, there is to say, occupied, functional and operational. Ohio.

What’s left is a big empty where development hasn’t seeded, and the rest would be unrecognizable if you had left for 10 years and returned. Except that it looks like every other place in America now.

A name heavy with vowels. It’s an Indian name—Shawnee for “beautiful river,” just the same way Michigan is Ottawa for “beautiful lake.” And Erie? That comes from the Erie tribe. The cat people. The panther. It’s a place named for the water and the wild. Then, just to show you how absurd the modern flip has become, you get Ramaswamy showing up in Toledo for a first meeting running for governor, floating the idea of renaming Lake Erie. What are you going to name it, Lake Trump, Lake Feller? Especially when its indigenous, original, and endemic name is such a wonder: Lake of the Panther.

That’s what I mean about the flip in Ohio. This essay isn’t about that stupid ass shit and its different stages of freakiness, but it’s what’s been there all along, and endemic to Ohio. In the exact same way that Oklahoma would have its own look, feel, and history. And boy, does it ever.

John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge, Cincinnati
Opened in 1867 when Cincinnati was the second largest city in the country.
John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge, Cincinnati
New York Dry Cleaners, Rhineland Neighborhood, Cincinnati
WCL Blast Furnace & Golden stallion Lounge, Warren
Original originally built by the republic steel company in the 1920s, the furnace at that time was the largest ever built in America, in 1921.

After WCI, a series of different steel companies owned the mill, and it closed permanently in 2012. The blast furnace was torn down in 2017.
AK Steel Plant, Middletown
From left to right is the coke plant, blast, furnace, and basic oxygen furnace. The picture was taken southeast of the plant, which is all farmland.

AK steel was eventually taken over by Cleveland Cliffs which has upgraded the plant and demolish the old coke plant.
Akron Coal Tipple
The structure is situated at a site historically known as Akron Junction. The specific street crossing by the camera is Eastwood Avenue. Geographically, this location is positioned just northeast of downtown Akron.

This specific tower was built by the Baltimore & Ohio (B&O) Railroad.
Window dDsplay, Downtown Wellsville
The Original Kewpie's Hamburger Shop, Lima
The second oldest hamburger chain in America, they're all began in Flint Michigan with their signature square hamburger.

In the 1950s and 60s, franchise licensing disputes caused many owners to break away or close. Today, only five Kewpee locations remain. Three of them are in Lima, Ohio (which now serves as the company's headquarters), along with one in Lansing, Michigan, and one in Racine, Wisconsin. The downtown Lima location, opened in 1928, is a beloved historic Art Deco landmark
The Main Entrance to Shady Lake Amusement Park, Streetsboro
Operating for a brief time from 1978 to 1982, the small park was run by the Humphrey family. It is best remembered for giving a second life to several classic rides relocated from the famous Euclid Beach Park, which had closed years earlier. Today, the former site of the park is home to an apartment complex and retail businesses.
A car window is sealed with an unusual amount of tape, East Liverpool
East Liverpool, once the pottery capital of America, is now mostly a poor city on the Ohio River.
Tree roots, Grasping Rock, Nelson's Ledges
Ohio has no mountains. The Appalachians end up as a plateau before ending at the Firelands after the Cuyahoga River. A glass walkway and bridge was added in 2025, but, is usually very muddy.

Ohio dowes have ravines.
Power transmission Lnes, Farm Junkyard, Ravenna
The picture was taken in a 90 minute exposure using film. Typical of farm lions in northeast Ohio. They are under depression to sell the land to build new homes.
Touchdown Jesus, Solid Rock Church, Monroe
Also known as football Jesus, the monument actually burned down.
Steel workers' mural, Blast furnace #1 Stove, Wheeling Pittsburgh sSeel, Steubenville
These West pharmacist were the oldest in America having been built in 1898. They were torn down in 2013.

Although in Ohio, Steubenville's proximity to Pittsburgh makes it a Steeler town.
AK Steel Blast Furnace, and Home, Middletown
No. 3 Blast Furnace, built in 1953 is still in operation and now on by Cleveland Cilffs.
Victorian, Home, East Liverpool.
At the time the home had been bought by a man from the farming area around Salem Ohio. For him, East Liverpool was kind of a big city. He, his wife and newborn child were living in the home. It was being rehabilitated by him.

I said I would be back with the picture, but, it took four years and when I showed up the home was basically in the same shape and somebody else had bought it. I just put the pictures in the mailbox at the door and split to Niko Junction
Columbia Cinema, Columbiana
The movie theater was saved as a community theater.
Mudhouse Mansion, Lancaster
This place was notorious for arresting anyone who trespassed on it. Both the owners and the county Sheriff patrolled vigilantly and always prosecuted whoever they found on the property.

At the height of this trespassed fever, in 2006, I went down to Fairfield County and a twilight park my car in the rear of an abandoned house about a half a mile away from my house mansion. I had already dropped off my camera gear and some brush on the road next to the mansion and I hiked back there.

Once there, I set up to do night photography with the mansion, lit by the rising moon until about 2 AM. I was pissed off enough when I saw a mercury vapor lamp that was lit in the background, but, which startled me was, I was shooting from inside a cornfield, getting comfortable and walking around and all of a sudden, all types of lights in the cornfield turned on, probably pick up trucks.

I lay low for about a half an hour, and then was very careful about walking around and not using my flashlight. If I had a rifle, I would've shot out that mercury vapor, but, it was satisfying enough to get the hell out of there and go back to my car and drive home.
Red School House
The picture was taken by the light of the moon in a 90 minute exposure on film in the autumn of 2006.

Ken was the farmer who owned the property and he raised cattle. The school house is long gone.
Mansion, Grove City
Boston Coke Works, Portsmouth
Part of the Detroit Steel Works in Portsmouth, Ohio, the coke plant was renamed and was the last section of the plant in operation until it closed in 2002.
Czheck Bar & Grill, Lorain
Lorraine Ohio was the home to a huge US steel mill that ran for 4 miles along the black river. At the northern end of the mill this neighborhood bar hold on until 2010 when I close.

The steelmills of Ohio were standby immigrants from around the world when they were built and during their rain. Eastern Europeans were a large segment of millworkers in the industrial states, but, all nationalities were really represented in a very big way with these mills.
Wapakeneta Movie Theatre, Wapakeneta
Michael Brown, a wealthy local businessman who made his fortune manufacturing butter churns, agreed to build the theater after his associates promised the community would buy $3,000 worth of initial tickets. Designed by a Columbus architectural firm, the Brown Theatre officially opened on March 14, 1905, with a performance of the comedic opera Isle of Spice. The luxurious 1,050-seat venue featured white marble wainscoting, frescoed ceilings, and a massive 40-by-60-foot stage.

The Vaudeville Era
1907 - 1920s
Quickly realizing that grand operas weren't going to consistently fill seats, Brown converted the building into a vaudeville house in 1907. It became a major regional entertainment hub, hosting traveling performers, local talent, boxing matches, and even early Hollywood legends like Ethel Barrymore and Spencer Tracy.

The Shift to Silent Films
1927
As the popularity of live vaudeville began to wane, the theater leaned heavily into the booming motion picture industry. In August 1927, they installed a massive Page pipe organ to provide live musical accompaniment for silent films, debuting with a screening of The Magic Garden.

Becoming the Wapa
1937
Emil George, who had owned half the theater since the 1920s, took sole ownership in 1937. He initiated a major modernization project: the private opera boxes were ripped out, a much larger movie screen was installed, and the iconic glass-and-neon chieftain marquee was added to the front of the building. With the new look came a new name, officially rebranding it as the Wapa Theater.

A Community Mainstay
Modern Day
Unlike hundreds of early 20th-century downtown theaters that fell into disrepair or were demolished, the Wapa survived. Today, well over a century after Michael Brown opened its doors, it continues to operate as a local cinema showing first-run movies to the Wapakoneta community.
Wapakeneta Movie Theatre, Wapakeneta
The movie theater in Wapakoneta, known today as the Wapa Theatre, is a historic staple of the city. Located at 15 Willipie Street, it is one of the oldest continuously operating theaters in Ohio.

Originally built to host live opera and stage performances, the theater evolved alongside the entertainment industry—surviving the transitions from vaudeville to silent films, and eventually to modern talkies.
Louise's Bar, Lima
The classic Neighbourhood bar on N. Main St. in Lima shut down permanently in 2016.
Red School House
Red School House